and to leave Kandze for Yachen Gar around noon. It was not the best
idea money wise. If you leave around 6 a.m. you can find seats in
shared cars for 35 RMB (3,5€). At noon everyone for Yachen had left
and I had to search a lot to get a driver to agree to a 400 RMB
price. We put our bags at the back of the car and left as planned
around 12 p.m. I paid the driver 200 RMB in advance for him to take
fuel.
30 minutes after leaving Kandze, we started the climb to the Tsoda-la
pass, the highest point of our trip at 4,900 meters (16,000 feet). A
couple of times during the climb, the driver stopped to talk to car
coming in the opposite direction. He then told me that there was a
problem on the road and that he wanted to return to Kandze. Not
really understanding what was the nature of the problem, I asked him
to continue.
We stopped at the summit to throw paper prayers flags and to take a
few pictures. We then proceeded downwards to the next valley. The
driver took great pleasure in driving like mad. He was going so fast!
I was really feeling uncomfortable if not afraid at times. I think
that the door handle still has the mark of my fingers!
After 20 minutes, and a few other stops to talk to cars in the
opposite direction, we reached the end of the descent and the police
check. That it is what our driver feared so much, the police check!
It quikcly appeared that he had no driving license. he had to stop
and leave the car there!
Then negotiations started. The girls and I stayed in the car the
whole time, while our driver was going from one police officer to the
other. We were surrounded by half a dozen of nuns from Yachen whose
car also had been confiscated. He first came back saying that they
wanted 500 RMB. I answered to him that it was not my problem and that
there was no way I was going to pay that amount of money. After
another 20 minutes or so, he came back asking 300 RMB. I told him
that I would pay but that he would not get any more money when
arriving at destination. He discretely handed the money to the police
officers but nothing happened. I could see him begging them to let us
continue. Finally, after another 20 minutes or so, a police officer
took the car keys and climbed into the car. I was thinking that he
would drive the car into the police station to be confiscated when he
said: "I, you Yachen". He was actually going to drive us to Yachen
Gar! I don't know if that was the point of giving the 300 RMB or not,
but that is what he did! I thought it was quite nice of him anyway.
After another two hours or so, we reached Yachen. He dropped us there
and left without asking any money.
The first people to welcome were officers of the local police
station. yes, they put a police station in the middle of the
monastery/camp. In quite good English, they asked us for our passport
and checked our visas. We were asked how long we wanted to stay, I
answered that the plan was to stay for three days. They said that
three days were okay but that we should leave after.
Then we started looking for someone to help us to find the nuns I
sponsor and a place to stay. After little time, we met a 13 years old
nun that I met last year and I asked to take me to Yashe Cheutso. She
lead us to the site where the khenpos of Yachen teach. There are in
some kind of glass house and monks and nuns gather around to hear
them teach Buddha Dharma. Two khenpos were teaching and more than
1,000 people were listening to them. I was lead to sit next to a monk
who seemed to know me or about me and I was told to wait there until
they find Yeshe Cheutso. After 30 minutes, the teaching session ended
but there was still no trace of Yeshe Cheutso. The girls were still
waiting away from the teaching side and had become the center of
everyone's attention.
We met with Pema Chodron another nun also coming from the Rigul area,
she speaks some English and understands my broken Tibetan. She told
us that the best was to go to Yeshe Cheutso's house and that we would
stay there. On our way we met with Khakha, Yeshe Cheutso's older
sister. She became a nun last year and I also sponsor her. Yeshe
Cheutso joined us a few minutes after we arrived at her hut that she
now shares with her sister.
We were told that they new we were coming on that day but that they
were waiting for us in the morning. Of course, food was offered to us
and a few people came to visit.
Then the time came to sleep. Yeshe Cheutso and Khakaha's hut has two
rooms. The one where we slept in was about 2,50 by 2,50 meters. The
four of us squeezed in and we fell asleep quite rapidly despite the
conditions.
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